Given the pace at which restaurants are modernizing and as the internationality of food becomes ever more commonplace, The Ledbury’s tablecloths and Franco-modern European style might be classified as old-school-ish. But that would be to ignore the level of craft and conscientious sourcing of ingredients, not to mention the influence chef Brett Graham has had on the educations of many of London’s now generation. [‚£‚£‚£‚£]